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Debt Consolidation: Proceed with Caution

Every time I get an offer from some feckless freelance writer trying to “give” me a “free” article plugging her customer, yet another debt consolidation service, I’m quietly amused. Well…no. I’m amazed: obviously some PF bloggers are publishing articles on debt consolidation that don’t give the whole story.

Debt consolidators negotiate with your creditors so that you make a single monthly payment to the consolidator, which then disburses small amounts and skims off a nice finance charge for itself. This may be useful for those who truly do not have the self-discipline to pay their bills and to snowflake them down with every small windfall that comes along. But for most people, it’s an expensive way to go. The FDIC notes that even though a consolidator may lower your monthly payments, the resulting plan will take longer to pay off your debts, and that the use of debt counseling is likely to show up on your credit report.

Some of these outfits are very smarmy. The Consumerist reports, for example, on the case of a “debt relief law firm” that collected $450 a month from a mark’s checking account, supposedly to pay down $23,000 worth of credit card debt. Not until the victim applied to rent an apartment did he discover the “debt relief” was actually theft, and that nary a dime had been paid toward his cards.

Some debt consolidators or alleged law firms charge excessive fees, often collected up front. These lead consumers even deeper into debt, failing to relieve their problems and even landing them in bankruptcy court. Although most debt consolidation companies claim to be nonprofits, they make a great deal of money at customers’ expense.

A number of years ago, while I was teaching at the Great Desert University’s westside campus and wishing I could earn more for less work, I applied for a job at a so-called nonprofit debt advising company. Starting pay for a job that required me to write lessons and conduct training in budgeting and personal finance was about $90,000—a phenomenal amount in a right-to-work state like Arizona. Various bonuses and perks were also promised. Companies don’t pay low-level executives that kind of money unless they’re making plenty of it.

Debt consolidation companies profit from their customers’ woes in a number of ways. One is simply to deduct a percentage of the payments passed along to creditors. Another is to engross one or two entire payments for “administrative costs,” dealing a blow to the borrower’s credit report when no  part of the payment ever reaches the creditors.

You don’t need a third party to settle your bills. Whatever these outfits do, you can do for yourself, and then some—at no extra cost.

First, call your creditors and try to negotiate a better interest rate or payment plan. They don’t want you to default, because that costs them money. Many will work with you to pay down your debt.

If you’re behind on your payments because of a documented personal disaster, such as a health crisis or loss of a job, lenders will sometimes negotiate a reduced balance. This is far preferable for them than having you declare bankruptcy and pay them nothing.

Next, always pay more than the minimum due. A minimum payment applies only about one or two percent toward the balance; your goal is to pay down the principal.

Most car loans and mortgages allow you to pay extra specifically toward principal. You may have to go in to the bank in person to accomplish this, but it’s worth the trip. The more of your money that goes toward the principal, the faster you pay down the debt.

Establish a budget and stick to it. This budget should be designed to keep you from running up more debt. Stop charging stuff. Easier said than done, but that’s why you make a plan and stay with it.

Create a sidestream income and pay all of the net proceeds toward the debt. If this means delivering pizzas after work in the evenings and on weekends, so be it. A side job is one of the most effective tools for paying down debt and building savings.

Pay every extra penny that comes your way toward the debt. Got a rebate? Tax refund? A few bucks from a yard sale? Pay it straight into the debt, no matter how tiny it is. Every little bit helps. It’s surprising how quickly you can whittle down debt this way.

Decide which works best for you psychologically: to attack the largest debt first or to go after the one with the largest interest rate. From a practical point of view, it’s usually best to get rid of high-interest debt first, since that costs you the most money over the long term. Some people, however, feel most oppressed by larger debts, even if the interest is low relative to a smaller debt.

By “larger,” I don’t mean your mortgage. This should be the last debt you decide to pay off. Get rid of revolving debt first. The small tax advantage given to mortgage holders defrays the actual cost of interest on these loans, and so the most urgent debt is represented by credit card and automobile loans.

Pay off debts in an organized, systematic way. Establish a monthly amount you can disburse toward existing debts. Devote the largest part of it toward the account you decide to liquidate first, while paying something more than the minimum toward other debts. When that account is paid off, move your largest payment to the next account, and so on until, one after another, all the debts are settled.

None of it is rocket science. You don’t have to fork over any of your money to someone else to do these things. You can do them for yourself—for free!

If you still feel the need to talk with someone about your debt problems, the National Foundation for Credit Counseling can refer you to free or low-cost counseling and offers a number of consumer tools on its website.

Credit Report Check

If you don’t already know it, take note: Going online to get annual credit reports is amazingly easy and fast.

The site to visit is Annual Credit Report.com, because it does not try to sign you up for any gimmicks or paid recurring reports. You get what you order here, with no hassles and no sales pitches.

You can order reports from any or all of the three major credit bureaus: Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. They don’t give you your credit rating (though you can purchase it for a nominal fee), but they do signal any problems.

Because each credit bureau is required to provide one free credit report per year to consumers, it’s a good idea to set up a calendar reminder to hit one bureau every three months, giving you an ongoing record instead of one annual picture.

However, each bureau is a little different; they don’t all have identical data. I was concerned enough about the late, great Macy’s fiasco that I wanted to be sure no black blot was lurking on my records, especially since one’s car and homeowner’s insurance rates can be affected by negative credit reports. If I decide to buy a car, even though I pay in cash I don’t need whatever extra hassles or charges might ensue from any negative items, so I decided to order all three reports this time.

TransUnion was the only bureau that disgorged a detailed report for me. Equifax and Experian produced one-page summaries, and I couldn’t see any way to get in and see a full report. The summaries, though, sufficed, because they both reported no negative items.

At any rate, it’s extremely easy. Where in the past you had to fill out three separate online forms and enter a lot of data, now you fill out one form at Annual Credit Report.com plus answers to a few identifying questions at each site, and voilà!

It’s worth your time to do it.

Financial Freedom: Escape from debt and build savings

Debt and savings are directly linked. Every dollar you have to pay toward debt is a dollar you can’t put into savings.

Making your money work for you—investing plenty of savings in instruments that will pay returns that one day will support you—is key to building financial freedom. The only way you can get off the day job treadmill is to get out of debt and stay out of debt. In that respect, debt really is slavery: for those of us who are not wealthy at the outset, indebtedness means we must keep working to pay our bills. At the same time, debt sucks our savings away from us,  keeping us trapped on the treadmill of never-ending labor.

My argument is that you don’t have to be rich to be free. Instead, you need to build a comfortable lifestyle that does not require large amounts of cash flow, you need to be out of debt, and you need to establish several sources income (dividends from savings; side jobs) to help you build wealth.

The truth is, too many Americans literally are saddled with debt. The consequences of this have become obvious since the crash of the housing market: something between a fifth and a quarter of Americans owe more on their mortgages than their homes are worth. This issue has become so aggravated that many people who can in theory afford to continue making payments are choosing to simply walk away, rather than continue to throw good money after bad.

So: obviously, the best course of action is to avoid debt. When buying a house, select one whose cost is low enough that you can pay it off in 15 years or less. And in day-to-day life, never charge more on a credit card than you can pay with your current month’s income.

All of which is easier said than done.

If you’re already in debt, step one on  the road to financial freedom is to unload all revolving debt. Get rid of any department store and credit card debt—if it’s not mortgage debt, pay it off now. Any number of personal finance gurus provide lots of advice on how to get quit of debt. Dave Ramsey is probably the most popular, with his “snowball” approach to pay-off. I’m partial to “snowflaking,” proposed on the now dormant blog, I’ve Paid for This Twice Already. PT’s strategy sets a certain monthly payoff amount that exceeds the minimum required payment, and then she adds every bit of “found money” and every windfall, no matter how small. These “snowflakes” are paid against the debt immediately, as they happen.

In fact, getting out of debt is not so complicated that you have to subscribe to a guru’s system. All you need are will power, a goal, and consistent, regular payments against principal. The strategy goes like this:

1. Quit charging. Even if it means you have to parcel out your paycheck in cash secreted in envelopes to cover budget items, do not put anything on a charge card that has a balance due.

2. Pay substantially more than the minimum due against all charge-card and car loan balances. If possible, consolidate credit-card debt onto one card and pay that down as fast as you can.

3. To accomplish this:

a) Live frugally. Economize tightly until you can get rid of the debt.
b) Develop a second income stream and devote all of it to paying off debt.

The immediate goal, of course, is to get rid of noxious debt that cuts your buying power. Every penny you pay in interest for something you bought on time reduces the value of your dollar. So, if you’re paying some bank 21 percent for the privilege of buying things on its card, every dollar you spend on the merchandise is actually worth only 79 cents. That’s how much credit-card debt shrinks your standard of living!

But the long-term goal is freedom: financial freedom. Once you’re rid of revolving debt, you can work toward buying your shelter free and clear. And when you have that, you’re more than halfway to the exit from the day job.

After you’ve succeeded in paying off credit-card debt, it’s time to shift strategies. Now you have a newfound cash flow: the chunk of cash that was going to pay creditors is coming to rest in your bank account!

Hawai’i beckons. But resist the call.

Instead of diddling away your new real income, continue to live below your means. When using credit cards, never charge more than you can pay at the end of the current month’s billing cycle. If you find you can’t control spending on cards, then pay for everything in cash. This strategy will maximize your actual income. Instead of holding your salary less what you owe to lenders, your bank account will contain…yes! Your salary. Your whole net salary.

By living below your means—a habit you’ve already developed while paying off the cards—you will accrue money to put into savings. Take all the money you were spending on servicing debt and stash it in mutual funds. Some should be in a stock fund, some in a bond fund, and some in cash (i.e., the money market, CDs, or treasuries). This creates a kind of hedge: as a general rule, when stocks are up, bonds go down; when stocks go down, bonds rise. Because you earn more in the stock market, over time, than you do in the bond market, it’s a good idea to have somewhat more than half your investments in stock funds. To avoid being ripped off by fees, choose a low-overhead mutual fund issuer such as Vanguard or Fidelity. Arrange for dividends to be reinvested, and at the same time send in a set amount to each fund every month.

Do this above and beyond any 401(k) or 403(b) plan your employer offers. If your employer matches your retirement contributions, do not neglect to participate in the job’s plan. Even if there is no match, a 401(k) or 403(b) may allow you to contribute more pre-tax dollars than you can put into a regular IRA. Check. Also find out if you can put money into a Roth IRA, and if so, how much. Roths are preferable to regular IRAs because, even though you fund them with after-tax dollars, you don’t have to pay taxes on their earnings and you can pass the money to your children without having the government take the lion’s share.

In any event, the point is to get yourself into as many savings schemes as you can. If your employer offers a savings or a pension plan, by all means enroll in it. But also save and invest on your own. Your employer’s plan should never be your only investment.

At this point, you have laid the three building blocks for financial independence:

1. Live below your means.
2. Develop more than one income stream.
3. Save and invest all funds not needed to cover living expenses.

You now have only one remaining challenge: Get a roof over your head that costs you close to nothing. Once you have that, financial freedom is within your grasp.

More, then, to come…

An Overview
Education
Work
Debt
The health insurance hurdle
The roof over your head

How long will it take to pay off that credit-card debt?

In debt on the cards? Or are you contemplating a big purchase and planning to put it on your credit card? Here’s a way to figure out how long it will take to pay off the balance making only the minimum payment each month…and gain some insight into credit-card debt.

Once the calculator has given you the bad news about the minimum-payment strategy, it delivers some more options.

Entering $2,000 as an outstanding debt at 17 percent, I learned it would take 17 years to pay it off, at a rate of $40 a month. By the time the two grand was finally erased from my record, I would have spent $3,181 in interest.  So, a swell-elegant $2,000 sofa (for example) would end up costing me $5,181, and the thing would be ready for Goodwill before it was paid for.

Okay, let’s say you can afford payments of more than forty bucks. The results page lets you explore what would happen if you paid more toward principal. Enter $100 a month, and you see you could pay off the card in 24 months, assuming you make no more charges. You’ll pay $369 in interest for the privilege, but at least the sofa will still be standing by the time you’ve paid for it.

You determine to accelerate your debt pay-off plan. How much will you have to pay per month to zero out this card in a year? Enter the number of years you hope it will take you to get rid of the debt, and the monthly payment comes up. Let’s say we want to pay for the sofa in one year: monthly payments would be $183, and in that year $189 in interest would accrue.

Eye-opening, isn’t it?

The extreme joy of deferred purchasing

The moral of the story: some English-major math reveals that if you simply delayed purchasing the sofa until you had $2,000 in the bank, you’d only have to put $166.66 a month aside to be able to buy it in a year.

At $183 a month, you could have the cash to plunk down in 11 months. But if $40 was really all you could afford, then you could buy the sofa outright after just four years.

And it wouldn’t cost you anything in interest. Matter of fact, if you put the swell-elegant sofa fund in a high-interest savings account, your purchase price would earn a few pennies for you. And a penny saved is a penny earned.

Image by Channel R, Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0, Wikipedia Commons

Pay off debt or build savings?

Over at I’ve Paid for This Twice Already, Paid Twice invites her readers to think about the relative importance of paying off debt or building savings. Which should be a person’s top priority? It is, as she points out, not a clear-cut decision.

Some people say that there’s “good debt” (such as home and student loans, owed on property or training that eventually returns more than you pay…supposedly) and “bad debt” (everything else; especially credit cards). I personally would argue that there’s only debt, and debt is slavery. Debt forces you to stay in the traces until you pay it off or until you die, whichever comes first. Over at Debt Kid, Jessica describes experiencing the same revelation.

Freedom from debt is freedom to live as you choose. Period. If working brings you personal fulfillment, you can do it—and a debt-free worker is one who has a great deal more disposable income (to say nothing of more options) than one who labors under the lender’s lash. If you want to retire or devote your energy to low-paid but altruistic work, debt freedom will make either of those choices possible.

I’ve used savings—in direct contradiction of advice from money advisers—to pay off debt and never once regretted it. Here’s why:

1) Revolving debt cuts your purchasing power by the amount of the interest gouge. If you pay 18 percent for everything you put on a charge card, then each dollar you spend is really worth only 82 cents.

2) You don’t actually own anything when you’re making payments on it. The bank owns it; you’re just renting it.

3) For most mere mortals, the so-called tax benefits of mortgage interest are negligible.

4) If you own your home outright, the absence of a mortgage payment increases your real take-home pay enormously. I couldn’t live on my net income if I owed on my house or had to pay rent. I paid $100,000 for my first house, for which I put down $20,000. Until I paid off the loan, I owed $9,960/year on the PITI. In the best of times, that $100,000 earned $8,000 a year in mutual funds. Paying off the mortgage freed up $830 a month for living expenses and savings. Taxes and insurance on my present house, purchased with the proceeds of the sale of my first paid-off home, are about $2,200 a year, meaning that today I have to set aside about $183 a month to cover those annual bills. That’s a far cry from an $830/month bite…which at the time I paid off the loan represented half my monthly take-home pay.

5) Where real estate is concerned, in normal market conditions (which one day will return), when a house is paid off and appreciating in value, the money you put into it is growing just as it would grow in a conservative investment, at about 6 to 8 percent a year. Thus the $100,000 I paid for my first house yielded $211,000 a few years later, allowing me to buy my next house in cash. Once a house is paid off, you’ll never lack for cash to keep a comparable paid-off roof over your head.

6) This is not true while you’re paying on a mortgage, because the mortgage interest eats up the gains created by the property’s appreciation in value. Over 30 years at 6 percent, a you’ll pay $115,838 in interest on a $100,000 loan; in other words, you’ll pay $215,828.45 for your $100,000 house. If you’d put that extra $115,838 in mutual funds over the same period, the compounding interest would have been paying you, not the bank. Paying just $200 a month extra against principal would cut your payback time from 30 years to 16 years and 3 months and drop your total interest gouge to $57,386.

7) Clearing off  debt opens the way for larger and faster savings. If you could afford to make a payment on a car, a house, or a credit card, then once you’ve paid off the debt you can afford to put the amount of the payments directly into savings and investments.

So, in a way, debt pay-down is a form of saving.

On the other hand, in recessionary times when one’s income is at risk, you need a substantial emergency fund. If you find yourself starting out during a recession, your first priority obviously should be to stash enough to live on for at least six months, preferably longer. IMHO the ideal emergency fund contains one year’s worth of your present net income.  Once you have it, though, you’re justified in devoting every extra penny to paring down debt of all kinds.

In good times or bad, saving should be part of your agenda. But since freedom from debt makes your money go further and allows you to save substantially more, getting out from under debt should be your top priority.

If you’re in debt…

Javanese piggy bank, 14th or 15th century AD
Javanese piggy bank, AD 1300–1400

…you’re not alone! AARP recently published the results of a poll in which respondents were asked what proportion of their monthly income their monthly debt obligation amounted to. Nineteen percent of adults under 50 said they owed more than their monthly income! That’s almost one in five Americans.

We old buzzards weren’t much better off: 14 percent of people 50 and older were in the same boat.

Among the younger set, 24 percent saw about three fourths of their monthly income go to debt service, and 25 percent spent about half their income on debt. An incredible 26 percent of us dinosaurs said we spent 75 percent of our pay on debt.

Twenty-nine percent of the young things—more than a quarter, almost a third!—said they owed less than half their monthly income; 38 percent of survivors of the Cretaceous put our debt load at less than half of monthly income.

And…apparently the surveyors didn’t think to ask if anyone owed nothing. Too unlikely, eh?

IMHO, the most surprising element of this probably not very scientific survey was that over 1/4 of post-50s owed around 75 percent of monthly pay. Say what??? How could you possibly hit 50 or 60 or (hevvin help us) 70 and have to fork over 3/4 of your income to some lender?

Well…OK, two words: Edmund Andrews.

And no, I dunno how old he is. But obviously, if they included mortgage debt in this question (and there’s no sign they didn’t), folks who bought houses in the last three years or so are surely strapped.

In other categories, it’s not so surprising that old duffers are doing better than the rangy young pups: if you bought a house ten or fifteen years ago, what was once a breathtaking mortgage payment now looks pretty good. And most people hit their financial stride around age 50: typically people reach the peak of their earning power between ages 50 and 65. So if you earn more than ever before and you have an old mortgage, your debt ratio is probably lower…especially if you’ve been figuring you’d better shovel out from under the debt before you retire.

How about you? What proportion of your monthly income would you estimate your monthly debt to be?

Image: Wikipedia, GNU free documentation license