Coffee heat rising

Throwing money in the trash

Nope. That is not a metaphor.

Yesterday I was at a certain dear person’s home, where I spotted a shiny new penny on the floor. When I picked it up and handed it to him, he carried it over to the kitchen trash can and threw it out.

Eeek!

I’ve heard that some people think pennies are so worthless they’re litter, but never watched anyone actually do that. When I remarked on this, he said the copper in the coin is worth more than the coin itself. I suggested he drop them in a can and take them to the bank now and again to be converted into paper money.

“Do you do that?” he asked.

“Sure. One time I took my change to the bank and got ten bucks back.”

“How long did it take to accumulate that much?”

Ahem! “Well, quite a while.”

Point made, in his book.

But well, no. I don’t think so. In what way is letting a container of loose change collect dust eliciting any effort? It just sits there, not asking you to do any work while it quietly accumulates cash. In a way, it’s (chortle!) passive income!

I have two containers. One holds pennies and dimes and one holds nickels, quarters, and the occasional piece of paper money that comes my way. Because I no longer carry cash (I use a credit card to make all transactions electronic), I no longer accumulate much loose change. But back in the day when I did use analog money, I would keep the amount of change I had to haul around to a minimum by depositing all but a few pieces in the change collection a couple times a week. Then every few months, while I was sitting in front of the television in the evening I would organize them into those paper rolls you get for free at the bank or credit union. At my convenience, I would carry them to the bank to convert to paper money or simply deposit them in savings.
A penny saved is a penny earned!

Report: Does hypermiling work for a Toyota Sienna?

In a word: Yes.

Last night on the way home from work, I heard on the news that the price of oil had jumped another $10 a barrel, and that gas prices are expected to reach $5 a gallon by July 4. Even though I was down only a quarter-tank of gas, I figured I’d better stop by Costco to top off at a price we’ll likely never see again.

At $3.939 a gallon, Costco’s gas had jumped since SDXB filled up five hours earlier. The lines stretched to the street; 25 other drivers had conceived the fill-up idea before I did.

My car took 4.6 gallons. That amount had carried it 118.8 miles, for an average 25.8 miles per gallon.

Not bad, for a lumbering minivan whose year 2000 EPA estimate was 18 mpg in town-a figure we know to have erred on the high side. The gummint’s revised estimate is now 16 in the city and 22 on the highway, for a combined 19 mpg. Since about half the 118.8 driving miles took place on the surface streets, we might take the EPA’s combined mpg as what we could expect. So, using a very basic seven frugal driving techniques gleaned from the hypermiling set, I managed to squeeze an extra 6.8 miles per gallon out of the old tank without much practice or expertise.

Next steps:

  • Check tire pressure; inflate to maximum
  • Use lowest recommended weight oil for next oil change
  • Change air filter

Frugal driving = stress relief

It ought to drive you bats to dork around with your driving habits, which have served you just fine over lo! these past 45 years, in penny-pinching resolve to save a gallon of gas here and a gallon of gas there. Focusing on every mile per hour and wondering whether the tattooed fright behind you will brandish his Uzi if you slow his blast-off from the red light should leave you grinding your teeth. It’s only common sense, right?

No. Paradoxically, the truth is quite the contrary. For the past week or ten days, I’ve been trying out hypermiling techniques, just to see if $4.00 can be stretched to cover a little more of my 38-mile round-trip commute. One issue the hypermiling advice has brought to my attention is that what I call “assertive” driving is actually…well, it’s true: aggressive driving. Also, it’s possible that flying down the freeway in the pod that habitually moves 10 or 15 mph over the limit could, maybe, be called “speeding.”

Since I’ve taken to following just a few steps to save gas, the hated drive has mysteriously become a lot less hateful. The stress of wending my way across the surface streets and then competing (yes, competing) with other wired-up drivers across 18 miles of freeways has gone away. If it doesn’t matter whether you get there first and it doesn’t matter whether you get across the city at 65 or 75 miles an hour, then suddenly it doesn’t matter whether someone cuts you off! It doesn’t matter whether slower traffic wanders right in front of you. And it doesn’t matter that you can’t see around the truck ahead of you, because seeing around it wouldn’t make you go any faster.

Removing all these frustrations that used to matter, at one psychological level or another, causes driving to morph from mildly annoying to fairly relaxing.

Now, here’s the weird part: Not only does frugal driving relieve stress, it gets you there just as fast as jerking around and racing down the road will! In fact, it may get you there faster.

First time I tried a couple of hypermiling techniques, I noticed I got all the way out to campus in about 20 minutes. Fluke. Gotta be a fluke: it was coming up on Memorial Day weekend. All the moron drivers must have knocked off a day early and gone on vacation. Next trip: 20 minutes flat. Next day: think I actually got there in under 20 minutes. But, uhm…this is a 30- to 40-minute drive under the best of circumstances; two hours on a bus.

Why? For one thing, it’s in the interest of hypermiling to stay on the freeway even if traffic is moving slowly, as long as it’s not stop-and-go, because you don’t want to have to accelerate from a standing stop (i.e., you don’t want to stop at intersections). So, instead of dropping onto the surface streets at the earliest sign of a back-up, I’m hanging in there to see what develops. Often freeway traffic will slow to 30 or 40 miles an hour but then after a few minutes go right back up to speed. So I’m making more of my trip at 55 mph, nonstop, than I would if I traveled half the way on the surface streets at 50 mph but stopped at red lights, slowed for a school zone, or got stuck behind a school bus.

It may also be that second-guessing the speed of various lanes somehow slows you down. Some mathematically inclined bloggers look at traffic in terms of fluid dynamics and argue that driving slower and keeping a wide space between you and the car in front of you actually forces traffic around you to flow more efficiently. True? Not knowing, I’d hesitate to state, for fear of being erroneous.

Here are the frugal driving techniques I’ve been using:

  • Try to avoid applying the brakes any more than absolutely necessary. Watch the traffic flow ahead and, when red lights start to glow, coast to decelerate. Try to reach traffic stopped at the light as it’s beginning to move, so you don’t have to start up from a dead stop.
  • Accelerate from a stop slowly. It’s a car, not a jackrabbit.
  • When starting from a dead stop, allow the car to idle forward for a second before stepping on the gas.
  • Use the cruise control to maintain speed on the freeway and on steadily moving surface streets, and use it to accelerate and decelerate. Use the “coast” and “acc” functions to slow and speed gently. Try to keep your foot off the gas pedal as much as possible. But n.b.: don’t use cruise control on an uphill grade.
  • When approaching a grade, speed up a little (stay sane about this) to build momentum; then allow the car to slow as it climbs. Use the downhill grade to get back up to your cruising speed before resuming the cruise control.
  • Never drive faster than 60 mph on an urban freeway. Try to keep your speed at around 55 mph. Stay in the slow lane and take it easy.
  • If it looks like you will have to stand for more than 30 seconds (for example, at a long stoplight, in a gas station line, at a railroad crossing), turn off the engine.

Hypermiling includes several other strategies, some of which apparently aren’t very safe. We’ll see soon enough whether the seven techniques above work to improve my Sienna’s 18 mpg performance. I’ll let you know the next time I fill up!

1 Comment left at iWeb site

Value For Your LIfe

Great post!These are some gas saving tips I haven’t seen repeated over and over again elsewhere.I always go easy on the brakes (as a result it also makes my brakes last almost twice as long as average), and we have just gotten into the habit of driving more slowly and have noticed a significant difference.I will defintiely try some of the other hypermiling techniques you mention here!

Tuesday, June 17, 200809:56 AM

Skeptic saves $175

Hot dang! I just saved a hundred and seventy-five bucks, give or take. And I did it in ten minutes flat.

A couple years ago, Home Depot sold me a shoddy little vinyl screen door. I bought it because neither HD nor Lowe’s carried real wooden screen doors, and I didn’t want an ugly metal door or a security door. The vinyl things came as close as anything to a real door. They were cheap, too.

Problem was, they come with a shoddy little latch that doesn’t hold the door shut, much less lock it. The HD salesman said you couldn’t drill into the vinyl to screw a hook-&-eye latch into it. The screen door installing handyman agreed, adding that assuming you could drill into the plastic without melting it, you’d need to reattach the hook to an extra-long eyebolt and secure it with a nut; otherwise it would pull out. Ohhh well.

A year passes, and I find some actual, real, old-fashioned plain no frou-frou screen doors at a local door retailer. These cost about $125, and I figure the handyman will charge about $50 to install one of them. And they have to be painted. I delay buying, partly out of inertia and partly out of cheapness.

This week’s steady winds have been driving me nuts. The damn door, which won’t stay closed, keeps banging in the breeze, thwackada whack all night and all day.

So I tracked down the hook-&-eye I bought and didn’t use, and then broke out the electric drill.

Lo! The maleness and paleness lied!

A guide hole significantly smaller than the hook screw’s diameter zipped right into the vinyl, and the screw went in firmly and solidly. No way that thing is going to fall out of there! Now the vinyl door will do-no need to buy a new screen door.

The take-away message:

The frugalist doesn’t believe everything she’s told!

 

Saving $$ at the pool pump

Since I can’t save at the gas pump ($51 yesterday for a Costco fill-up that recently cost $38!), maybe I can retrieve a few bucks from the swimming pool pump.

The Feds say you can save as much as 60% on your pool’s electric bill simply by cutting back the number of hours you run the pump. Well, I’ll believe that when I see the statement (and don’t see sheets of algae growing on the walls)…but I’m willing to give it a try. It sez here:

Pool pumps often run much longer than necessary. Circulating your pool’s water keeps the chemicals mixed and removes debris. However, as long the water circulates while chemicals are added, they should remain mixed. It’s not necessary to recirculate the water everyday to remove debris, and most debris can be removed using a skimmer or vacuum. Furthermore, longer circulation doesn’t necessarily reduce the growth of algae. Instead, using chemicals in the water and scrubbing the walls are the best methods.

Reduce your filtration time to 6 hours per day. If the water doesn’t appear clean, increase the time in half-hour increments until it does. In the Florida study, most people who reduced pumping to less than 3 hours per day were still happy with the water’s quality. On average, this saved them 60% of their electricity bill for pumping.

Hmm. I’ve always gone by the advice that six hours a day is the least you can run a pool pump without getting green water, and you need to run it longer in 100-degree heat, when the pool water turns bathtub-warm. It’s hard to believe that you could get away with three hours in Florida—though maybe so, in the winter.

I do cut back the hours to six in the wintertime, to no ill effect. Right now it’s set to run about seven hours. Let’s try shifting it back down to six for a week; then try five. It may mean you’d have to keep the chlorine level too high to swim safely, which is no trade-off. But if the system will stay stable with normal chemical levels and fewer pumping hours, bully!

Comments from iWeb site:

2 Comments

Mrs. Micah

Good luck with that. My dad co-owned a house with a pool before he got married and he told us it was just too expensive to consider.

Saturday, April 26, 2008 – 12:26 PM

vh

Thanks to my rabid neighbor, costs of running the pool have been well within reason. Because he destroyed the entire system, my homeowner’s insurance paid to replaster the pool and install a new filter and pool cleaner, saving me about $10,000. It will be many years before any of that work has to be redone.

Meanwhile, I do the routine maintenance myself–it’s really easy. Costs of pool chemicals are modest, especially if you buy in bulk, and a comparison of power bills between this house and my last house, which was the same size but didn’t have a pool, suggests the cost of running the pump is about $15 a month. I’ve never paid more than $150 for a pool technician’s visit; most of the time a service call is $80.

None of this (so far) has been unaffordable. And I enjoy the pool so much, the costs to date have been worth it.

Sunday, April 27, 2008 – 08:08 AM

Candles

One element in the Month of (not-so)Extreme Frugality involves the experiment of navigating the house after dark by candlelight.

This requires me to dig up some candles and to figure out how to use them to best effect.

I have a number of pillar candles. Some are scented. Personally, I dislike the odor of scented candles. However: the late Walt the Greyhound had, as most greyhounds do, a bit of a flatulence problem. The methane could get pretty thick in the house, especially when the air-conditioning was going and I couldn’t open doors and windows. One way I coped with that was by burning off the gas with flares-that is, candles. Perfumed candles stank less than Walt, and so I would pick up pillars on sale at places like Cost Plus and Pier One for use in the living room and bedroom.

The problem is, pillars don’t put out much light. In terms of candle-power, they’re not much better than a plug-in night light. They’ll do to keep you from stubbing your toe on the coffee table, but you can’t read by them.

Tapers, however, do work quite well for the purpose. In the candle drawer, I have eight tapers, plus the two stubs in the outdoor candle-holders that have resided on the back porch all winter. These aren’t gunna last a month. How to buy candles without spending more than the CFLs would run up on the electric bill?

There’s an Ikea down the freeway from the university, halfway to Tucson. They have candles, very cheap. I’ll drive over there some time in the next couple of weeks and buy a box or two. A round trip to Tempe costs $7; add another dollar or so for driving almost to Chandler. In yard sales, candles can be had for pennies, but that also requires you to spend gas driving around town. I could make them with beeswax, an easy project that produces candles free of ingredients from the chemistry lab.

Burning Gas to Burn Wax?

In green terms, I’m now beginning to have doubts about this candle scheme. While it may or may not be frugal for an individual—depending on how high the Salt River Project racks up our electric rates and how cheaply you can get your hands on candles—burning wax and string release carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. If everybody is burning candles every night, will this not consume more energy and release more greenhouse gasses than generating electricity at a central plant, where smokestack washers or hydroelectric power control the per-capita release of gasses?

What’s the carbon footprint of a candle? It takes heat to melt wax and power to run assembly lines and make dyes and perfumes, plus the raw materials have to be hauled to factories and the finished products delivered to market-probably from overseas. Even so-called “beeswax” sold in craft stores probably is not: how do you think they get those colors in beeswax sheets? It doesn’t come out of the hive colored pale blue. The stuff must simply be factory-made wax melted, colored, and poured into molds to produce hexagonally patterned sheets.

Now let us consider the dollar costs for the individual. Beeswax to make your own candles is pretty expensive, even when ordered on the Web. One outfit sells wick at 10 cents a yard or $50 for a spool, and sheet beeswax at $1.75 a sheet, or $35 for 20 sheets. One sheet makes two candles, so DIY beeswax candles would cost you about a buck apiece ($1.75/2 + 5 cents = 97 cents, not counting gas to drive to the craft store or shipping for an online order).

I estimate my use of electricity to run lights at not more than $20 a month. The power bill was $80 last month, when all that drew power was the pool pump, the refrigerator, the lights, the toaster, an occasional use of the oven, once-a-week use of the bread mixer and the washer and dryer. The pool pump costs about $20 to $40 a month to run. The refrigerator allegedly runs around $13 a month. I can’t find figures for the clothes washer that don’t figure in the cost of heating water; I use cold water and I rarely wash more than two loads a week. The cost must be around five or ten bucks a month, max. Assuming the pump costs $40 a month (on the high side, I believe) and the electric cost of the laundry is $10, the cost of lights and small appliances would be $17 a month. Let’s say the oven, toaster, and breadmaker cost about $10 a month; that would leave $7 for the lights.

If a typical beeswax candle cost a dollar, you’d burn through seven bucks with seven candles, far from enough to last a month. Twelve economy tapers cost $11.50, plus $6.50 shipping, or a $1.53 apiece. Here, too, if you use tapers for lighting and not just for atmosphere, you’ll burn though those fairly fast. Even if the pool cost $30 a month and the lights are running $17, the cost of candles to light your house for 31 evenings could easily add up to around $30, significantly more than the cost of electricity.

So, unless you go to bed at dusk, chances are you’d spend significantly more on candles than you would on CFLs, which are said to cost $12 for 10,000 hours, including the cost of the bulb. That’s around a penny an hour. While it’s true that CFLs contain mercury and require fuel to make and transport, just what kind of chemicals are in a candle?

It looks to me like an individual would do a lot better to simply turn off the lights in all rooms that are unoccupied and use a single CFL bulb to navigate each room that is occupied.