Coffee heat rising

Car and Scam Update

So… The car flap subsided over the weekend but will start again first thing tomorrow morning.

I have to show up at the credit union at 9 a.m. to pick up a check, which supposedly I will present to the crooks at the car dealership, thereby ending the whole circus. My son has said he will come with me, which is much desired and appreciated given the way these people have taken advantage of me. But that will require me to drive all the way to the CU, then turn around and drive all the way back to his office a few blocks from my house, then drive way to hell and gone up the freeway to North Phoenix.

What a mistake it was to figure it would be OK to do business with SDXB’s ex-girlfriend, from whom we bought a car for my son when he was in high school. She’s lied to me, the so-called “financial manager” has lied to me, and now I’ve learned that what they’re doing is such a commonplace scam it has a name in the industry: the Spot Delivery scam. The goal is to drag you back in, rewrite the loan agreement, and add a ton of other expenses.

Where these people are concerned, they’re unhappy because I arranged my own financing at 1.9%, which they don’t want to accept. They’re trying to maneuver me into their own 2.9% loan, which I am not going to accept.

Typical in the Spot Delivery maneuver, when you show up there and announce you’re not going to do it, they tell you the car they took from you is sold or otherwise disappeared, so you’re pretty much screwed.

They also engaged in “payment packing,” in which the dealer adds as many expensive extras as possible.

The “financial manager” hustler hammered away at me for almost an hour trying to persuade me to buy an extended warranty above and beyond the 7-year, 100,000-mile CPO warranty. I refused. But they did  add to the bill of sale a “theft code” (which I thought was part of the purchase price: $289.90) and a “paint protection” finish (which I thought came with the car’s original new-car package: $195). They also charged a “document preparation fee” of $429 and $395 for an alarm, which according to the owner’s manual is part of the car’s standard equipment.

That comes to $1308.90 extra for items that I wasn’t even aware I was consenting to and at least of two of which were already on the car at the time they put it up for sale. There’s no way they could have applied a paint sealant while I was at the dealership: there wasn’t time for that, despite their keeping me waiting for hours. Nor is there any way they could have installed an alarm system while I was waiting. The saleswoman   told me she was having the car “detailed,” not that she was having it painted and adding equipment.

The credit union’s loan officer procured an agreement from the “financial manager” jerk that they would accept a check from the CU. But it remains to be seen whether they’ll do it. And it remains to be seen how much of our time they’ll soak up in this. My son has an overload of work and says he really can’t afford to take time off his job. But I really don’t have anyone else to help do battle with these people, and since I’m already losing, big time, I don’t feel I can take them on alone.

As soon as this is over, I’m filing a complaint with the state attorney general’s office. But meanwhile, the question is how to get it over.

The car itself is pretty cool. I’ve been reading the owner’s manual like a textbook. It does some pretty amazing things and has some very nifty features. One is, admittedly, left wondering “why?” Who really needs all this stuff? To my mind, electronic tools to accomplish things you can do with a flick of a finger look like more and more stuff to break.

It’s sad, how Toyota changed with success in this country. When they were first trying to get a foothold here — about the time I got my first Toyota, a Corona, and everyone was sick of Unsafe at Any Speed cars and dealers for whom rip-offs were SOP — Toyota’s sales and service were primo. They left American car dealerships in the dirt. But now that they own the market, they behave exactly like US car dealers used to in the 1970s and 80s: dirty.

 

Car: A short-lived love affair?

{sigh} It looks like there’s a good chance the (not-so) new car is going back to the dealership on Monday.

The sleazy high-pressure finance manager dude at the Toyota dealership called this afternoon, claiming that my loan was not approved. I said of course it’s approved: I was pre-approved at the credit union for 22.5 grand. Videlicet:

Your OneAZ Credit Union loan application has been approved with conditions.
Loan Type: Exclusive Auto Promo Vehicle Year: 2016 Loan Amount: $22,500.00 Interest Rate: 1.90% Term: 60

“We couldn’t pull a credit report because your Experian account is frozen,” said he.

“No, it’s not: I unfroze it from C***’s phone (C*** being the saleswoman) and arranged for it to stay unfrozen through September 24.”

“Well, we couldn’t get a credit report. You need to call Experian and unfreeze it.”

I call C*** and ask WTF? She had come bouncing back into her office with the credit report in hand and exclaimed “You are a banker’s dream!” She’d just discovered my credit rating: 807.

So I say, D** (the gent in question) says you didn’t get a credit report from Experian. She now says — hang onto your hat — that actually that credit report was from TransUnion, and they have to get reports from each of the three credit bureaus.

That, alas, is a flat untruth.

a) If that were true, she would have said so yesterday;
b) I am dead certain it was Experian, because the system emitted the usual “welcome to Experian” robo-chatter; and
c) Transunion, Equifax, and Experian each provide unique passwords – the PW for Experian would not have gotten me in to Transunion and therefore I could not have lifted the freeze there.

I didn’t bring the passwords for TransUnion or Equifax; Experian’s is digits from an ancient and irrelevant phone number and so easy for me to remember. Far be it from me to say that C*** is lying…but…uhm…maybe not that far.

What’s going on here is that the dealership is trying to corral me into accepting their 2.9% loan; they will make less on the 1.9% loan through the CU – possibly they will make nothing, since the loan is not through them but through the credit union. The guy tried to pressure me into taking the 2.9% loan yesterday, but I declined. He also tried to high-pressure me into buying an expensive extended warranty on top of the “Certified Pre-owned” feature. It took four refusals over the course of an hour or more to get him to knock it off.

So I call the loan officer at the credit union, T****, who says he can’t see what their problem is, since the loan has been approved and the dealership has received the letter of approval, which the CU has also sent to me. There’s a direct and an indirect way of buying the car, he explains. The present and most typical strategy is “indirect,” whereby the loan is routed through something called CUDL.  If it doesn’t work, then they will arrange for the “direct” method, which involves my traipsing to the credit union to get the documentation and a check. But he says there’s NO reason they shouldn’t be able to do this in the normal “indirect” manner. He said he would call D** and propose that they accept a “direct” loan.

At the time, I also ask T**** if the “year: 2016” means the loan applies only to new vehicles. He checks and says no, as agreed earlier, it covers 2012-2016 models.

Somewhat after 5 p.m., T**** called to say Bell Rd had agreed to do the “direct” method. This entails my driving to the credit union, picking up a check, and delivering it in person to the dealership.

With some hassle — the password was the last four digits of my SS number and they had entered the wrong characters — I filled out the required “signature” form, turned it in, and downloaded it to DropBox and to disk.

So on Monday I’m supposed to drive to the credit union Monday morning to pick up a check and then shlep it to the dealership.

That is going to blow away at least half of another day, probably more.

If I get one more scintilla of aggravation on Monday, I’m going to return the car, demand my car back plus any gasoline they’ve consumed, and tell them I expect them to fix anything they’ve broken on it.

 

 

Car as Archaeological Dig

A 16-year-old car is a slice of history; excavating its contents is like going on an archaeological dig. Here’s what I came across when I went to shovel out the Dog Chariot before forking it over as a trade-in.

  • A disintegrating Ziplock bag filled with quarters, for use in pay phones
  • A dime dated 1971
  • A fistful of city and state road maps. MAPS! Remember those?
  • One nonfunctional flashlight, sealed shut by battery corrosion
  • Two tire gauges, never used; one dates to the Early Devonian
  • One wing corkscrew for emergency wine bottles
  • Two pair of nonRx shades
  • Several emery boards
  • Half a roll of Rolaids, age unknown
  • One forgotten comb
  • One rarely used hairbrush
  • One fold-up umbrella

The new car has TWO big storage compartments between the front seats. These will more than accommodate the junk I carry. The van, alas, had nothing to speak of in that line, and so I had two flat cardboard boxes and a basket in which I carried around things like shades, antacids, a notepad and pen, packet of glasses cleaner, junk, junk,  junk, and more  junk.

It’s going to be so tidy inside that car, it’ll look like…like it belongs to someone else! 😀

Have you ever excavated a car? What did you find in it?

 

Buying a Car: Worse than buying a house?

It’s HERE! The new vehicle has taken up residence in the garage.

venza
Click for a link to more images: QUICK before they take it down…

Having decided the time had come to replace the beloved Dog Chariot., I went over to Bell Road Toyota, a large dealership where a friend of a friend is fleet manager. There I spent the entire afternoon wrestling with Toyota staff and ninnies at the credit union’s lender and on and on. It was amazingly awful. The piles of incomprehensible papers they make you sign rival the stacks of contracts you have to sign to get a mortgage.

So which is worse? Getting a mortgage or buying a car?

My own money is on the car transaction. Mortgage officers don’t try to pressure you to buy things you don’t need or want.

The car is a so-called “Certified Pre-Owned” (CPO) number, which means the dealer has refurbished it from front to back and provides an extended, fairly comprehensive warranty: 100,000 miles or seven years. They’re very proud of this and happily tell you all about it, over and over…until you get to the financial guy to whom you’re supposed to pay up.

He spent the better part of an hour trying to persuade me that I had to buy additional warranty coverage, lest God Only Knows WHAT might happen — liberally emphasizing the cost of replacing a fuel filter installed inside a gas tank. Much of this threat was laid to the federal government’s unreasonable demands for lowered emissions.

Ultimately I passed on the expensive extra warranty: it looked like a scam, sort of like those extended warranties peddled by appliance stores and Best Buy and the like. He finally gave up.

It really is a nice car.

Cartastrophe

So the bad news is, the car’s alternator crapped out in Tolleson, an alarming little burg where the term “low rent” means “gentrified.” The good news is, I just replaced the alternator in June, so it’s still on the warranty. The bad news redux is that you can’t buy a new alternator in the aftermarket. All aftermarket alternators, even if you buy one from a car dealership, are rebuilt. And, Chuck remarked as he was chauffeuring me home from his shop, “they crap out.”

Yeah. Well. Dude! It woulda been nice if you’d clued me to that before you charged me for a piece of junk that lasted all of four months and stranded me for five interminable hours in a QT parking lot inhabited by drug addicts!

Not wanting to repeat that adventure, I’m now actively in the car market. After much study of Edmunds, Car & Driver, Carfax, and Car Guru, the choices are narrowed down to a Toyota Venza or a Honda Santa Fe, 2012 – 2015.

The Venza is a kewl little crossover, unfortunately discontinued in 2015. My friend KJG and her DH own one, and they love it. I test-drove the Venza the last time I fell into a car-driving frenzy and really liked it, too. With a V-6, it’s quite the little rocket, and it has plenty of room for dogs, estate sale finds, and friends.

The Santa Fe is a larger vehicle but it has much to recommend it.  The regular Santa Fe is a full-sized SUV, but there’s a “Sport” model that’s shorter, with only five seats. Edmunds calls the Santa Fe the “true winner” in its class. You can’t get a six-banger in the Sport, but you can get a turbo-charged four-banger, which is almost as good.

Also much admired by Edmunds — and given a higher “grade” — is the Honda Odyssey. But I have the same problem with it now that I did when I got the Sienna: it seems like WAY too much truck than I need.

WhatEVER. We’ll see what the broker comes up with. He said he knew someone who was trying to unload a Santa Fe, and he thinks there’ll be a selection of Venzas. I didn’t find the latter to be true on Car Guru or Edmunds — to the contrary, availability of the Venza is limited. It was discontinued in 2015, so I expect a lot of owners don’t want to part with theirs. Or something.

I’m prequalified for $22,000 at 1.9% through the credit union. It will cover certified “pre-owned” cars between 2012 and 2015. Looks like a Santa Fe dated 2013 or 2014 is likely to run $17,000 to $18,000. I think the Sienna is worth about $1200 on trade-in (can no longer see Kelly Blue Book, because they now demand that you disable your AdBlocker, which I ain’t a-gonna do). If I don’t resurface the pool this year, I should be able to disgorge about $4,000 as a cash down payment. Let’s say I can get the loan amount down to 15 grand (holy sh!t): over five years, that’s $262.26 a month.

That would be precisely $262 more than I can afford.

So…needless to say, I am not pleased at the prospect of being chained to an auto loan for the next five years. However, the credit union will let you pay down principal, so once again — as happened the last time I had to get a car loan — I’ll throw every windfall large and small at the thing, and it will probably go away in a lot less than five years.

When I bought a Camry on time — back when I had a job…remember those? — that strategy paid off a five-year loan in 18 months.

We just deposited the current Required Minimum Withdrawal from Fidelity into my checking account. I believe I’m about $5,000 the good this year. So I could probably come up with as much as 5 grand in cash — though I’d rather not.  There’s a certified pre-owned Santa Fe with 30,300 miles on it on sale right now for $17,400. If my car is worth around a thousand bucks and I paid down $5,000 in cash, then I’d only have to finance about $11,400 (plus, plus, plus…). That’d be $200 a month.

Marginally affordable.

Car Guru shows only three 2012-2015 Toyota Venzas for sale in the Phoenix area. Two of them are graded as not good buys; the one they think is a pretty good deal is $18,598, for a 2013 vehicle with a V-6 engine and 46,364 miles on it. Holy mackerel.

LOL! Here’s a Santa Fe that looks like it’s orange! I’d have to paint yellow and black flames on the sides….

Ugh. I’ve never bought a used car before. This doesn’t look like a very safe prospect. But I sure can’t afford new-car prices.

Damn George Bush and his handlers for wrecking the economy and putting me (and everyone else) out of a job! I’d have  bought a new car six years ago if it weren’t for those shenanigans…and would easily be able to afford another new car right about now. That’s “new” new, not “new to me.”

All Loans Are Not Created Equally

The New Ride of Funny's Dreams. ca 2013: $17,500
The New Ride of Funny’s Dreams. ca. 2013: $17,500…plus interest

It doesn’t matter if you’re Donald Trump, all of us have to borrow money sooner or later. There are a bunch of online personal finance gurus out there who might tell you different, but there just isn’t a way to get through life without borrowing, unless you keep your ambitions well beneath your earnings. That may sound like something that is very possible, but is it really? We’re talking about putting off a home or auto loan, potentially even going without higher education. Not many people can afford to pay for those things out of pocket, so borrowing would be necessary. Are you really able to skip out on those things, just so you don’t have to borrow money?

I’m going to guess not. If you’ve accepted borrowing as a part of life, at this point, it’s important not to just start borrowing willy nilly. Not all loans are created equally. There are multiple aspects to consider for each loan, even beyond the main details that we always think about. Here are some things to consider.

Price. There are people who have loans who don’t even understand what an APR is. An APR is Annual Percentage Rate. That’s the kind of name that doesn’t tell you anything about the thing it represents, so we’ll dig a little deeper. The APR of your loan is, basically, the price that you pay for borrowing that money. It’s a combination of interest and fees. Interest is a specific percentage rate that you’ll pay each year, based on the base amount of money you are borrowing. There will also be fees associated with each loan, for originating the loan, for processing, for whatever the lender dreams up.

These loans can have APR of anywhere between 1% to 35%, sometimes more. The latter is extremely high, but there are other loans that are meant to have extremely short duration, and carry WAY higher interest and fees to compensate. Verymerryloans.com has a bunch of examples you can check out, and you can get a quote if you like. It’s best not to take on loans that have high interest, as these will be more expensive in the long run, and will give you a higher chance of defaulting. If you default, you’ll likely incur way more interest and fees in the long term. You should also not take on loans that penalize you for early repayment. This sometimes happens, when a shady company wants to lock their customers in for the long (Expensive) haul.

Duration. This is the other major factor when considering a loan. How long will you have to pay off the loan? As mentioned above, is there any penalty for early repayment? There are tons of loan terms, from a week to thirty or sixty years. Some businesses take on loans which go farther than that, and world governments can pay in near perpetuity.

These are the two factors to consider when taking on a loan. All terms associated with your loan will pertain to either Price or Time, so if you’re having trouble understanding said terms, figure out which category each belongs to, then work out what it’s talking about from there.

—JB
Image: OSX – Public Domain