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Budgeting

A little frugality goes a long way

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Well, I was about to say “I amaze me with my frugality,” but the truth is, I haven’t been pinching pennies any more rigorously than usual. That notwithstanding, despite almost $1,000 in “extraordinary” (read “not in the budget”) expenses, I’m only going to have to pull about $245 out of savings to cover this month’s charges. 

dcp_2529Yes. This month I ran amok with the extraordinary expenses. To kick off the budget cycle, a Talbot’s junket racked up an $86 debit when I succumbed to the lure of the Sale! tag. Got a cute little top at B’Gauze, also allegedly on sale at the bargain price of $47. Then we chose this month for Mrs. Micah to migrate Funny to BlueHost, which was quite the project. Her fee was amazingly reasonable, but it also could be viewed as outside the realm of ordinary costs. Next, nothing would do but what I had to harden the security on my office right this minute, in light of the swarm of burglaries the neighborhood has seen: $295 for purchase, delivery, and installation of a solid-core door plus $281 for purchase and installation of a pick-proof, drill-proof lock and metal door guard. (Gulp!) Moving on, the locksmith profited further when Bila the Painter couldn’t figure out how to remove the (very involved!) antique Baldwin lock from the front door at the downtown house: $150 for two visits, one to get it off the door and one to put it back on. All these added up to an astonishing $969.67 in extraordinary expenses.

Gasp!
😯

My de jure budget now has me spending $1,200 on ordinary, day-to-day expenses, such as gasoline, food, household goods, and whatnot. That amount should cover one or two out-of-the-ordinary costs, such as a visit from the plumber or a trip to the veterinarian’s office. Against the desired $1,200 limit, I’m actually $396 in the red. But the de facto amount that goes into the credit-card piggy bank (a money market checking account earning a little interest) is $1,500; anything that doesn’t get spent out of that sits in the account and serves as emergency back-up. Against the $1,500, I’m “only” about $245 in the red. As a practical matter, the accrued cushion in that piggy-bank account will cover it, so I really won’t have to transfer a dime from savings to pay for this month’s spending extravaganza.

Could I have exercised some restraint?

Well…yeah. I needed some summer clothes, but you know, there’s no law that says just because a store is advertising a sale you have to run right in and buy stuff. The clothing purchases could have been deferred to the end of the month, at which time I would have been out of money and so wouldn’t have bought the shirts at all. Staying out of Talbot’s and B’Gauze would have cut the deficit by $133, leaving me a modest $112 in the red. 

But some of these things really needed to be done now: I wanted to install the door and lock while I still have an income from the Great Desert University. And theoretically the locksmith’s work on the downtown house could be included in the cost of the paint job, which is coming from a different piggy bank. The project to monetize Funny needed to start soon, so I would have some time to learn how all that works and possibly to improve earnings from the site before I’m out of work. Eight or nine months seems like a pretty short lead time, really: that was a sooner-the-better proposition.

So, I don’t feel too bad about all this. Riding the train (and taking two weeks of vacation time, eliminating a bunch of endless gas-guzzling commutes) eliminated one gas fill-up. Thanks to the stash in the freezer, I haven’t had to buy much food. And the stockpiling strategy allowed me to put off purchase of a few household items into the next budget cycle. 

Once I’m retired, of course, $1,200  will have to be the real maximum expenditure limit, and not a pretend “can I really live on this” figure. As a practical matter, I’ll have to come in well under $1,200 in most months to get by. That will be a challenge as inflation rises. But right now I’m spending significantly less than that in ordinary, day-to-day expenditures. If I spent about $970 in extraordinary expenses and overdrew the $1,200 budget by only $400, that means regular, routine costs consumed about $570 less than budgeted ordinary expenses. (I think: arithmetic is not a science that serves me well.) 

Whether that figure is right or wrong, it’s pretty clear I can eat, drink, and make merry on less than $1,200 a month. Meanwhile, with the Renovation Loan now paid off, recurring monthly bills drop from $840 to $670, a figure that will drop another $30 when I cash in a whole life policy in January (because I have to pay taxes on the proceeds, I’ll need to put that off till I have no earned income to speak of). 

So let’s say I can expect to spend maybe $1,000 a month on routine living expenses. That plus the remaining $640 in recurring bills comes to $1,640 a month, or $19,680 a year. Think of that: a retired person can (in theory) live on less than 20 grand! For me, investment income alone will almost cover that.

Of course, we still have my share of the downtown house’s mortgage: $9,600/year. The net on $13,944 in Social Security benefits should cover that, but if not, I’ll earn more than $9,600 teaching at the community college. So, even after taxes, any freelance income will be pure gravy.

Although some observers might regard my lifestyle as ascetic (I refrain from spending on cable TV or a cell phone, for example, and I rarely go out to eat), I don’t think of myself as extremely frugal. I never clip coupons, I don’t pursue freebies from CVS, I buy my clothes new, and any day I’d  rather own a book than borrow it from the library. I eat like the Queen of Sheba and do not stint on wine and beer purchases. 

The trick is to get out of debt, including mortgage debt. Once the house and the car are paid for (and you’re not trapped under a load of revolving debt), you’re home free—given decent retirement savings. Without a huge cost for the roof over your head, a very moderate level of frugality will allow you to live quite comfortably.

Saving: Every little bit helps

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The other day, J.D. at Get Rich Slowly posted an interview with his real-life “millionaire next door.” In a very interesting article, he made the point that you don’t have to earn a Wall-Street salary to accrue enough wealth to achieve financial independence. John, the interview’s subject, did it on a teacher’s salary. The trick, he says, is to spend less than you earn.

True that. I would add that it’s crucial to build your budget so that you do spend less than you earn by including a line item for savings, and then to foster the habit of saving everything else that you don’t spend on living expenses. Even if you’re fighting to get out of debt, at least some small amount of your total income can go into savings. Paid Twice sets the example for this strategy: despite setbacks such as the car crapping out, she and her husband persist in building emergency fund savings while beating back a debt load that started out at a depressingly large figure.

Thanks to the collapse of the Bush economy, I’m no millionaire, but I’m a great deal less perturbed about the pending layoff than one would expect, because I have plenty to live on despite the obligation to help with the mortgage on a second house. The mortgage on my own home is paid for and I have no other debt except a $21,000 loan taken out to renovate the downtown house. Suspecting the university would can me, I started setting aside enough money to pay off that loan last year and for the past several months have had enough to kill it. The reason I haven’t paid it off is that I felt I should hang onto the cash to make it double as an emergency fund in the event I lost my job.

I have, however, decided that next week I will pay off the Renovation Loan. Why? Because by the end of this year I’ll have saved another $24,000! That’s after setting aside enough to cover COBRA until Medicare kicks in and after paying the $1,200 for my car’s 90,000-mile service.

That will have happened because I don’t spend anywhere near what I earn.

First, I’ve always engineered the budget so that $200 a month goes straight to savings. While trying to accrue enough to pay off the Renovation Loan, I budgeted another $204 toward that (started out more, but GDU’s furlough days cut my net income by $180 a month). Once enough was saved for that purpose, I just kept on putting the extra amount in savings: a total of $404 a month.

Second, I have two side income streams, freelance editing and teaching. Every after-tax dollar from those activities has gone into savings. These income sources made it possible to accrue enough to pay off the second mortgage by the end of last year.

Having cut spending by $180 a month, in August when the furlough days end (so we’re told…), I’ll continue to put that much in savings, too. I should net about $5,000 from the three community college courses I’ll teach in the fall, and a conservative estimate of freelance income is about $200 a month, for a total of $1,600 between now and layoff day.

Staying on budget has allowed me to spend less than I put into the credit union accounts set aside for recurring expenses and for credit card charges (I charge everything other than monthly bills on the American Express card, pay it off each month, and collect a kickback of between $250 and $500 at the end of AMEX’s fiscal year). This means a fair amount has accrued in accrued in dribs and drabs and is just sitting in those two accounts. Here’s how that shakes out:

savingsfigs5-3-09

Projecting the amount the regular savings from my GDU paycheck should grow, by December 31, layoff day, I should end up with almost $5,800 to add to existing credit union savings:

savingsprojected12-09

Okay. Now let’s add to that the amounts I figure to net from teaching and freelancing, to arrive at the projected 2009 savings as of December 31:

savingsincprojected12-09

Amazing. The $12,380 I expect to squirrel away from net teaching and editing income plus routine savings from my GDU paycheck plus the $11,931 already on hand comes to $24,311.

That’s with a pretty conservative estimate of freelance earnings, and it doesn’t count the so-called “extra” paycheck coming in July, thanks to the crazy bimonthly pay schedule. Add another $1,200 (some of the “extra” paycheck has to be used to cover regular spending—it’s not really extra) and the vacation pay GDU will owe me in December (around $2,600) and you come up with a projected total of something over $28,000.

This will be my fallback fund in retirement. If utilities and healthcare bills exceed a given month’s income from retirement savings and teaching (as they will in the summer), this “cushion” will keep me from bouncing checks.

It’s come about because I spend a lot less than I earn! Whenever I take a side job, I put the money into savings. My budget covers only the amount I make in my day job at the Great Desert University, and that budget allows for a $404 monthly deposit to savings—soon to be $574, after I pay off the Renovation Loan.

scenario-1bEven though I’ll have to spend almost everything I earn once the day job ends, I’m still planning to deposit at least $200 a month in savings. Assuming I put $10,000 of the accrued savings into my main checking account, things will be tight: in a month when I’m paid for only two weeks of teaching, I barely squeak by. However, when the community college checks come in twice a month, I accrue so much extra that unemployment during the expensive summer months will not cause spending to run the bottom line into the red. I should start August with $11,650 in checking and end it with $11,508. After that, as utility bills fall, spending money rises. After all the bills are paid in December 2010, I should have about $12,970, leaving me $3,970 in the black at the end of the year.

That’s $3,970 that will go into savings…

Best month on budget so far!

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Well, here’s a nice surprise: As this month’s budget cycle draws to a close, I’m $47 to the good in spite of having diddled away $275 on a swell leather purse. With five more days to go, all the food the dog and I need is in the house, and I shouldn’t need to buy gas or anything else for another week.

budgetapril09

Last November, I cut the month-to-month discretionary spending budget (i.e., all costs other than regularly recurring bills and utilities) from $1,500 a month to $1,200, planning to put the extra $300 into savings. At first, staying within the new parameters was a challenge. Most months ran into the red. Last month was the first success, but with only $11 to spare.

In microbudgeting, a month’s budget cycle (here based on the American Express billing cycle, ensuring that enough cash will be available to pay that bill in full each month) is broken into four approximately week-long chunks. Thus if you run in the red one week, the budget overrun can be made up in the following week.Theoretically.

budget2april092The last week of this month’s budget slipped into red ink because of an unexpected $177 bill: Greg the Handyman had said he would install a houseful of blinds and then backed out, so I had to arrange for Lowe’s to do it. Greg’s hourly rate is a lot cheaper; had he done the job as agreed, week 4 probably would have been in the black. But because two of the other three weeks are deep in the black, the month overall is also in the black.

I’d planned to pay for the handbag extravagance out of monthly savings, which just now contains more than enough for an indulgence. However, because this month’s budget is so fully in the black, ordinary cash flow actually will cover the cost and still leave the budget $47 in the black!

Ordinarily, a month with two large extraordinary expenses would put a $1,200 budget into the red. That’s why I put $200 to $400 a month into savings: to cover overruns. Had I not purchased the bag this month, the budget would have been $322 to the good. That is with a trip to the mechanic’s for car maintenance!

And—hallelujah, sisters and brothers!—that is an all-time record. It means that in ordinary expenses (as opposed to a certain wild extravagance), I spent only $878 this month.

What accounts for such a wonder?

Well, first, because of the train I won’t have to buy another tank of gas before the end of the budget cycle. Ordinarily, gasoline runs about $75 for three fill-ups. This month, I’ve spent $41 at Costco’s gas pumps. If I ride the train to work Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, trips to the Great Desert University will take all of $3.75 out of the remaining $47 next week.

Second, except for the handbag, I haven’t had any really large extraordinary expenses: no serious repair or veterinary bills. When you own a house and occupy it with a dog, some hulking budget-buster comes along almost every month.

Otherwise, I’m not sure. I haven’t gone into full ascetic mode at any time. The only explanation is the freezer + stockpiling, which has hugely cut the number of grocery-store runs. It’s the miracle of staying out of stores! The theorythat going into grocery and big-box stores, even with a shopping list firmly in hand, leads to untold numbers of impulse buys seems to be true.

If this isn’t a fluke and I actually can cut discretionary spending to under $1,000 a month without much pain, I may just be able to get by in unemployment retirement.

Debt-to-Income Ratio: Frugalist begs to differ

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So the Financial Wizard par Excellence is arguing that M’hijito, who earns a salary that is exactly at the median income for bankruptcy purposes, should be able to shoulder a great deal more of the Investment House mortgage than he agreed to. Our agreement was that he would cover one-third of it (having contributed a third of the down payment) and I would carry the other two-thirds. When we sell the chateau sometime in the future at an outrageous profit, we’re to divide our incalculable riches accordingly.

Fact is, he’s carrying more like 40 percent of it.

FW trots out the debt-to-income ratio to support his position:

The total debt-to-income, or back-end ratio, shows how much of your gross income would go toward all of your debt obligations, including mortgage, car loans, child support and alimony, credit card bills, student loans and condominium fees. In general, your total monthly debt obligation should not exceed 36 percent of your gross income. To calculate your debt-to-income ratio, multiply your annual salary by 0.36, then divide by 12 (months). The answer is your maximum allowable debt-to-income ratio.

Hm. Let’s think about that.

My gross income is $62,500. In theory, then, I should be able to tolerate a debt load of $1,875. A person with the state’s median gross income should be able to afford a total debt of $1,301.91.

And…uhm…what does such a debtor eat? Guess he doesn’t have to worry about dieting, eh?

My net monthly income is $3,000—actually, it’s more like $2,864 with the twice-a-month furloughs. The cost of operating my house and paying regularly recurring bills such as long-term care insurance and utilities comes to about $840 a month. In the winter it’s a little less, but one ignores the high summer bills at one’s peril. My house is paid off, so I have to self-escrow the costs of homeowner’s insurance and property tax, which when combined with the car insurance bill average out to around $350 a month. The combined cost of all other expenses—food, household goods, gasoline, car repairs, home repairs, pool chemicals, yard items, veterinary bills, medical and dental copays, and on and on and on—comes to about $1,200. I do charge these things on AMEX by way of collecting a couple hundred dollars in kickbacks once a year, but I pay the charge card bill in full every month.

I live pretty frugally: don’t travel, don’t subscribe to cable or cell services, rarely eat out, don’t buy many clothes (and none that have to be dry-cleaned), wash my own car, clean my own house, grow some of my own food, abstain from expensive hobbies, don’t even go to movies.The only debt I have is the $170 bill for the Renovation Loan (soon to be paid off) and my $800/month share of the house mortgage, for a total of $970. I presently put $400 a month in savings toward survival after the coming layoff. So…

  $840 monthly set expenses
  1200 all other living & unexpected expenses
     170 Reno Loan (second mortgage)
     800 Investment House mortgage
     350 tax & insuranceself-escrow
     400 emergency savings
$3,760

Tha’s funneh. Seems to come to more than I’m bringing home! Cut emergency savings to a more ordinary $200 a month, and we still exceed my net income by $696 a month.

Okay, I admit it: the $800/month is a drawdown from savings. So $3,760 – 200 – 800 = $2,760.

That’s right: a debt of a grandiose $170 a month brings my outgo to within $104 of my income…and that’s without any major bills: no pipes explode, no veterinarian proposes surgery, no dentist cries out for some expensive procedure, and the car’s transmission continues to run flawlessly.

If $1,875 of my income were committed to debt service, I would have a munificent $1,125 left to live on. But it costs $2,760 for me to live rather modestly (some would say “ascetically”) in a small middle-class urban tract house.

Is there any question why most people are up to their schnozzes in revolving debt? If my debt-to-income ratio were maxed, the only way I could possibly get by would be to live on the cuff!

Allow me to propose a different debt-to-income ratio, one that is based on net income, not gross.

Obviously, the amount of debt a person or family can afford is a function of the amount of money the household brings home, not a never-never-figure whose total is effectively meaningless. What matters, when calculating what you can afford, is how much you have in your pocket, not how much you putatively “earn.”

If you hope to live within your means and your net is, say, $3,000 a month, you need to subtract your known living expenses plus a little for emergency savings from your take-home pay. What remains is the amount you can pay toward debt. Let’s say I were not facing unemployment in a few months, so I put aside a more normal $200/month toward the emergency fund: my regular needs would come to $2,410 less the second mortgage payment: $2,240 (i.e., $2,410 -$170). This would leave $590 a month ($3,000-$2,410) available to pay toward debt. That is 19 percent of my net income.

On a “good” salary in my region, I can afford to commit about 20 percent of net to debt payment. Spend much more than that, and presto-changeo! My lenders get rich on the interest I owe now and forever, world without end, amen.

Take-home pay is typically about 60 percent of gross pay. So a person with Arizona’s $43,400 median income brings home about $26,040, or $2,170 a month.

That would make a reasonable debt load right around $435 a month (20% of $2,170). Yes. For your mortgage or rent, your student debt, your revolving credit-card debt, whatever you owe Mom or Uncle Ernie…

By this guideline, M’hijito, who has no other debt, is already contributing $165 a month more than he can afford to our combined real estate venture.

Figured traditionally, the debt-to-income ratio suggests he should be able to afford $1,301 a month, leaving him with a miserly $869 a month to live on!

Here’s what I think: the standard debt-to-income ratio calculation is utterly unrealistic and unfair to consumers. First, a number like 36 percent way too large. Second, figuring the amount of debt a person can carry according to his or her gross income works a complete disconnect from reality! No one lives on gross income. We live on our net income! Because net, not gross, is what we have available to spend, net income is the figure that should be used to calculate a tolerable debt load.

The take-home message: Figure the amount you can pay toward loans of any and all kinds according to your net income, not according to your gross. Obviously, if you want to spend no more than you earn, you need to keep the debt load low enough that it plus your total other spending and saving needs come to no more than your take-home pay.

debt-to-income ratio = (net pay – spending needs – saving needs) ÷ net pay

The decimal fraction you get from this formula is the fraction of your net pay you can afford to spend on debt.

How hard is this?

Well, of course, real hard: who do you know who’s paying $435 a month to keep a roof over his head? And how many own their cars free and clear? Not many, I’ll bet, who don’t have a roommate, a spouse, or a life partner.

Few exercises demonstrate more clearly that good financial health (at least on the household level) entails getting out of debt and staying out of debt. It means pinching pennies as tight as you can, creating more than one income stream to maximize net pay, and doggedly snowflaking down revolving debt first and then finally mortgage debt. Quite a challenge, this “getting real” business.
😮

Microbudgeting: Keep costs under control with a baby-steps budget

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I’ve come up with a name for the week-to-week budgeting plan that I invented to keep discretionary costs (if you call food “discretionary”) under control: microbudgeting.

As readers who follow Funny know, I set aside $840 a month to cover recurring, nonoptional bills: utilities, once-a-month yard care, insurance. These represent the highest possible figures for the utility bills, which occur in three summer months here.

Then I set aside $1,200 a month to pay all other living expenses,including food, household goods, yard goods, gasoline, clothing, repair and maintenance on the house and car, vet bills, insurance copays, and on and on and on. This amount represents the microbudget: I divide the $1200 into four $300 “chunks” roughly corresponding to weeks, and coordinate those with the American Express budget cycle. All of these costs are charged on AMEX, and the bill is paid in full at the end of each cycle.

Some weeks, I’ll run in the red. But if I manage to stay in the black in one or two weeks, it usually evens out.

Here’s how this looked last month:

Week by week
Week by week
Whole month
Whole month

As you can see, even though even though I ran in the red three weeks out of four, over the course of the month I just broke even. Costs were high last month because of the new stockpiling scheme: I’d just bought a freezer and was stuffing it with one to three months’ worth of food. I’d planned to take money out of savings to do this, but as you can see, that wasn’t necessary.

Because I can spot, week-to-week, when I’m running in the red, I know when to cut back. Didn’t do the greatest job of that in February, but things are looking better in March. So far.

Microbudgeting turns out to be an effective tool for helping yourself to stay on budget. Except for extraordinary expenses that needed to be paid out of emergency savings anyway, the week-to-week strategy for staying on budget has worked to keep spending under control pretty well. It breaks a longer period, during which you might be tempted to overspend on this or that activity or impulse buy, into smaller pieces that give you an opportunity to climb out of the red without feeling like you have to pinch pennies the entire. grinding. month. It’s a lot easier to economize for one week than for two, three, or (if you’ve overspent early in the budget cycle) four weeks. Once you’ve got yourself back in the black, you feel a lot more confident that you’re coping.

Notice that I carry forward the red ink into the following week. This prevents “cheating” by pretending to start over with the full amount budgeted for that week, despite having spent more than desired the previous week. I ended up $11.13 to the good at the end of the month, because even though I overspent in three weeks out of four, I managed to stay enough in the black in week 2 to cover the excess spending.

Normally I try to stay in the black at least three weeks out of four (ideally, four weeks out of four!). February was stressed because of the food stockpiling, and because I chose to pay for it out of cash flow instead out out of savings. Had I taken some money out of savings to cover the hoarding scheme, I would have ended deeper in the black, and probably would have stayed in the black at least one extra week.

This scheme requires some OCD tendencies: it demands that you hang onto every receipt and enter it in a spreadsheet or hard-copy account book. But I don’t find this onerous. I stick the receipts in my wallet and then sit down and enter them about once a week. It takes maybe 10 minutes a week to accomplish.

To build habits that keep you in the black without leaving you feeling blue, it’s well worth the time!

Staying solvent in penury

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At last! The FIRST GLIMMER OF HOPE in the past 24 hours of number-crunching.

If my figures are right, after I’m booted out into the financial snow I can continue to pay toward the Investment House mortgage, continue to live in the outrageous style to which I have become accustomed, and not go broke. The trick is to earn about $13,500 a year, the amount a good part-time job around here pays. I would need to net $938.75 a month and add it to Social Security and 4% of surviving investments to pull this off.

My arithmetic skills are so wobbly that I had to add up a year’s worth of income and outgo to figure this out. Here’s how:

The amount I’ve used to represent monthly expenditures shows the highest monthly utility bills of the year. But the power and water bills drop by more than 50% in the spring and fall. The working figure also includes a $170 payment on the Renovation Loan, which I can easily pay off, dropping that monthly bill to 0.

It occurred to me that with the pending much-reduced income, I could create a “pool” account much like the one I fund now with biweekly paychecks. But because so little money would go into it and the demands of daily costs are so high, the initial “grubstake” would need to be much larger than what I put in to start my present, much better-funded pool.

My current pool account was bankrolled in the amount of one paycheck, which at the time was about $1500 (it’s significantly less now, thanks to the furloughs). What if instead of funding this new “pool” in the amount of a paycheck, I grubstaked it in the amount of an entire year’s net income, $22,500? I have more than half of that laying around the credit union right now, and if I pick up two classes between now and the end of December, I could easily come up with the rest. So, on January 1, I deposit $22,500 into my “pool” checking account, scrounged from present savings and future earnings. That becomes the account’s “cushion.” If unexpected repair bills or the usual astronomical summer utility bills outpace my income, the 22.5 grand will more than take up the slack. In theory, over the winter when bills are much cheaper, I should catch up.

First I added subtracted each month’s typical bills from each month’s balance (the previous month’s balance plus Social Security plus investment income plus a proposed amount of earnings), assuming I netted $1,000 a month from freelance fees or part-time jobs.

Lordie! The result is I live like a queen, never dip into the red, and end up $2,090 to the good at the end of the year.

Well…I don’t exactly live like a queen, but at least I don’t suffer a significant drop in my already modest standard of living. I get to keep putting $200 a month into a fund for unexpected expenses and indulgences, and, best of all, I have no problem paying my share of the Investment House mortgage.

Next, I repeated this 12-step process assuming I earned only $500 a month. This left me $5,265 in the red at year-end. To estimate how much I might need to break even, I divided $5,265 by 12 months and then added it to the $500 monthly extra income. This suggested I would need just under $939 a month to run in the black.

Since my math cannot be trusted, I ran an empirical experiment to see if this was accurate: plugged $939 into the 12-step process. And by golly! This scenario produces a surplus of $3.00 at the end of 12 months.

This is the first time I’ve run a set of figures that make it appear I won’t be taking up residence in a tent city after I’m laid off. With three potential income streams, it should be pretty easy for me to net around $1,000 a month. These activities will force me to get out of the house and interact with some live humans, which can’t be bad. And who knows? It may lay the groundwork for a full-time job after age 66, when the government stops grabbing back your Social Security just because you still have something to contribute to the workplace.
w00t!
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