It worked! Yesterday, in a great flashback to my hippy-dippy days, I took it into my shaggy little head to try to make some yogurt. This was very popular among the back-to-the-earth set in the 60s and 70s, mostly because home-made yogurt allegedly would contain fewer contaminants than what you could buy in a store, and also because store-bought yogurt wasn’t the greatest. Nevvermind that you couldn’t get organic, antibiotic-free milk unless you had a cow in the backyard. As a practical matter, homemade yogurt tasted a great deal better than what you could get in a supermarket, where the best of a mediocre lot was Mountain High.
Today the yogurt you can buy is much, much better. However, the rage for Greek-style yogurt has taken over the world, and now you can’t easily buy plain ordinary boring yogurt. Sometimes you’d like the thinner product, though, to make soups like xergis and for blended drinks. Also, organic yogurt isn’t cheap, whether or not it’s been strained to resemble Greek yogurt.
Out came my old Laurel’s Kitchen, the standby of hippy-dippy vegetarian chefs. Laurel’s recipe for yogurt involved adding powdered milk — and not the instant kind. Not having any of that and having no idea even where to buy it, I moved on to the Moosewood Restaurant Low-Fat Cookbook, another back-to-the-earther standby. They would allow you to use instant powdered milk.
I have no use for the stuff and am not going to go out and buy it.
Those folks with the yaks on the high steppes, I figured, did not have powdered milk hanging around the yurt. It simply had to be possible to make yogurt without recourse to an industrial foodoid.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I picked up a half-gallon of hormone-free milk and a package of Green Mountain Creamery’s finest organic Greek-style yogurt. And here’s how the caper came down:
You need
• ½ gallon milk
• ½ cup good-quality commercial yogurt
Read the ingredients on the yogurt container. Be sure the product contains “live culture,” meaning the critters that turn milk into yogurt — and benefit your innards — are still bouncing around in there.
Gather Your Gear
• a large saucepan or small dutch oven, with lid
• a spatula or wooden spoon
• a candy thermometer or some decent common sense
• a wire whisk
• an oven that will heat to a very low temperature and that has a working light, or a heating pad, or a refrigerator that exhausts warm air in a place where you can place a stoneware bowl (in which case you will need a stoneware bowl large enough to hold ½ gallon of milk
oven thermometer, if you’re using the oven
• a sink or large clean pail
• ice
• cold tap water
• optional (see below): clean bath towel and large stoneware bowl
• clean containers to store the finished yogurt
• Step 1: Heat the Milk
In your saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the milk over medium heat to right below boiling. On a candy thermometer, this is 200° Fahrenheit. You really don’t need a thermometer, though. The milk has reached the right temperature when it begins to show a skiff of light foam on the top, especially around the edges of the pan — tiny bubbles form on the surface at this stage. Gently stir the milk as it heats to make sure the bottom doesn’t scorch and the milk doesn’t boil over. This step is necessary to prevent the yogurt from separating later on. (As usual, click on the image to see the details.)
Step 2: Cool the Milk
Dump a bunch of ice into a clean kitchen sink or clean bucket large enough to hold your pan. Pour in enough water to reach almost up to the top of the pan. Set the pan directly into this cold water. Stirring steadily with the wire whip, let the milk cool until it is just hot to the touch, 112°F – 115°F. It should feel more than lukewarm, but not scalding hot.
Step 3: Inoculate the Milk
Drop ½ cup of yogurt into the warm milk. Whisk it in well using the wire whip. Blend the two ingredients smoothly, leaving no lumps of yogurt behind.
Step 4: Incubate the Yogurt
Now you simply keep the mixture warm until it sets up into yogurt. The trick is keeping the milk around 110°F until it has set, usually four to eight hours. You can do this easily in a commercial yogurt maker, but it’s not at all necessary.
If you have an oven whose temperature will stay low enough, by all means use that.
If your oven maker’s idea of “warm” is somewhere around 200 to 250 degrees, you can still use it but you’ll need an oven thermometer. Once the yogurt is cool, put the lid on the pan and wrap the pan with a clean towel to insulate it. Place the oven thermometer inside the oven and turn the oven to the lowest heat offered. When the temperature reaches 115 degrees, turn the oven off and turn on the oven light. Place the yogurt into the oven, close the door, and go away. If the temperature in the house is fairly cool, you may need to turn the oven back on briefly to maintain the temperature — but be sure to keep an eye on that thermometer.
Alternatively, you can get a large stoneware bowl and pour hot tap water into it, to warm it through. Then transfer the milk into the bowl. Wrap it in a clean bath towel and then set it in the oven with the oven light turned on, or set it in the warm exhaust of a refrigerator, or set it on a heating pad set to “low” or “medium.”
My oven, however, will hold at about 100 to 115 degrees. So, if you have an oven with a “warming” feature like this, heat it to about 100 to 110 degrees. Place the pan in the oven, close the door, and go away. An oven thermometer is useful to help you keep an eye on the heat, but if you don’t have one and you don’t trust the oven, simply prop the door open slightly during the incubation. If the pan is very full and you have any concern at all about spilling milk in the oven, place a cookie sheet under the pan. I’ve found this is unnecessary, but just in case, it could avoid a clean-up.
Be careful not to jostle the milk too much as it’s incubating, so that it will set properly. This process will take from four to eight hours, depending on how tangy you like your yogurt.
The longer the yogurt sits, the thicker and more tangy it gets. After about four hours, open the pan and taste the yogurt. It should be creamy, like a barely-set custard, and the flavor will be tart yet milky. If you like it at this stage, pull it out and refrigerate it. If you’d like it tangier, leave it for another hour or two. I left it in the oven for about six or eight hours, producing a thick, zingy yogurt.
Step 5: Cool and Store the Yogurt
Leaving the yogurt in the pan or bowl you used for incubation, place it into the refrigerator. Once it’s completely chilled, transfer it into air-tight containers and store it in the refrigerator, where it will keep about two weeks. Sometimes you’ll find a layer of watery whey on top of the yogurt, just as you may find with organic grocery-store yogurt. Stir it back into the yogurt or, if you prefer, strain it off.
Et voilà! That’s it. The five-step process makes this sound time-consuming, but in fact it’s not, because most of the time the live culture does the work while you go off and entertain yourself with something else.
Since yogurt is getting kind of pricey these days, making your own has become quite cost-effective. After you’ve made it once, you can use your own to start future batches, meaning you never have to buy another expensive container of yogurt again. All you’ll ever have to buy is the milk.





